Q: My pump has a “HAM” within the part number but I do not see any in the catalog.

A: HAM is the old style and seceded by a “HBM”. The only difference is the HAM had a straight thread for the inlet & outlet as the HBM has a taper thread.

Q: My pump is making noise. What should I check?

A: First check the inlet filter for obstructions and make sure the NOP pump is not cavitating i.e. sucking air. Check the piping for crushed / damage. The coupling between the motor & pump may be damaged. To check remove 2 caps screws holding the pump to the motor. Replacement couplings can be purchased thru Industeq.

Q: My pump has no pressure / volume.

A: Check the inlet filter and or replace. Remove the outlet line / piping then attach a test hose on the outlet side. Does the pump volume change? There may be an obstruction down stream in the piping. Check the relief valve setting as the adjustment may have backend out due to vibration.

Q: The pump keeps tripping my breaker and or thermal overload.

A: Check all the factors above (filter, coolant, piping, Etc) and if all OK disconnect / seprate the pump from the motor and isolate the motor. If the breaker / thermal overload trips still then the motor is damaged. A local motor repair shop may be able to rewind. Also Industeq stocks individual motors if needed.

Q: I have a VD type relief valve and once I changed to a new one my pump doe’s not work. I have no longer flow & pressure.

A: there is a metal sandwich plate that goes between the pump and relief valve. This is to cap off one port since the VD type relief valve bypasses externally. The metal plate has a tang and that need to match up with the pump & relief valve casting cut-out. Make sure to put a gasket between the top & bottom of the metal plate.

Q:I want more pressure what can I do?

A: typically more pressure equals more Horsepower / Kw needed. Look at the chart to see the different sizes (pump-vs-Kw) but pay attention because if you change the motor size then you may have to replace the electrical contactor & thermal over load controlling the pump. Also the wiring may have to be changed to handle the extra current. Advise with someone certified in electrical to confirm.

Q: I do not want a dramatic change in pressure and do not want to change my motor, what else can I do?

A: Pressure, Volume, Kw is all proportional if you change one then one other will change. So to keep the same motor Kw and if more pressure is needed then there will be a loss in volume. If say you have a 216 series you can go to a 210 to increase the pressure a bit but you will loose volume.

Q: I changed the relief valve on my 1 Series NOP pump and now the pump does not work. Why?

A: What happened is the 1 Series NOP pumps have a bushing instead of a bearing for the shaft, and when installing the VB relief valve the bushing is not aligned correctly on the shaft, and winds up stressing the shaft. With the pump removed from the motor and with the coupling on the pump side (for leverage) hand rotate the pump in the direction it is in operation / direction of the arrow. The shaft should rotate with very little resistance and will have a slight lobbing feel to it as it is the G-rotor inside meshing while rotating. If it does not rotate, loosen the three M6 screws on the face of the pump, and while rotating the shaft, snug the screws then tighten evenly. You may have to repeat the process a few times to find the “sweet spot” so the shaft rotates freely.

Q: Is there a seal kit for 1 Series Trochoid pumps available?

A: No, not from NOP / Industeq, simply because of the time to repair versus the cost of a new unit calculates to be the same.

Also due to the size there is no roller bearings. There are only bushings so to press out and replace. Installing new seals is not cost affective.

Q: Is there a seal kit available for the 2 Series Trochoid pump available?

A: Yes there is. Contact Industeq for specific types as there are a few types available. They also depend on what style Nippon Oil Pump you have.

Q: My oil pump quit working. Can I send out for diagnosis and/or repair?

A: Yes. Contact Industeq for details on repair for a 2 series and above.

Q: I am continuously having pump issues and replacing frequently. What is wrong?

A: With the long history of NOP pumps being used abroad, typically it is not the pump, but instead what the pump is pumping.

There are pumps still out there on machine tools continually still running for 20+ years with no issues.

We have seen multiple pumps damaged just from neglect and improper filtered fluids. If the fluid going into the pump is dirty from a lack of proper inlet filtration, then the G-rotor will seize and trip the pumps thermal overload in the electric cabinet. To some extent we have seen the G-rotor completely cracked from metallic shavings entering the pump and all caused from dirty fluids and incorrect filtration. Also, if the rear of the motor fan is clogged up with coolant goop, then the motor will run hot and radiate to the NOP pump and decrease the pump life.

If you are using a HWM we may suggest to use a HWMC type as this is a ceramic shaft and will hold up to abuse better.

Q: Can I use a HBM pump (Oil) in place of a HWM pump (coolant)

A: No, because of the locations of the shaft seals and bearings the HBM pump bearings are lubricated by the circulating oil within the pump. But the HWM pump has a shaft seal then a bearing that is factory greased then a 2nd seal. This is a barrier from the water entering the bearing.

However you can cross a HWM to be used in place of a HBM if needed, but this is not recommended because of the bearing lubrication not being constantly lubricated.

note = “W” in the pump part number means “Water”

Q: I have a “C” in my Nippon Oil Pump trochoid pump part number. What does this mean?

A: The “C” stands for “Ceramic Shaft” and is a option on the HWM series to increase the life of the pump. With a ceramic shaft the lip seals will not grove the shaft as easily as a plain shaft. Once a shaft is grooved from a seal water / coolant can pass through and damage the roller bearing.

Q: How do I remove my 2 Series NOP Trochoid pump from the electric motor?

A: Only 2 screws need to be removed, and the pump will slide out of the motor hosing flange.

If you look closely at the M8 cap screw there are 2 that are painted the same as the pump and 2 that are not as in a in a “X’ pattern. The 2 that are painted sandwich the pump together and was painted as the pump was manufactured. The other 2 opposing cap screws attach the pump to the motor and are plain black oxide color. Removing just the 2 plain black oxide color screws is all that is needed.

If uncertain slightly loosen 2 opposing screws and see if the pump will separate from the motor flange. If not, retighten and try the other opposing 2, and by twisting them back and forth the pump should pull straight off the motor